News and Training
Where did the MoonBoard come from? A short film on the history of getting stronger and climbing harder.
Posted: November 16, 2017|Categories: Climbing
Why train shoulder stability. Why do these tedious, boring exercises? Well, for one it reduces your risk of shoulder injury, and two, it can enhance your climbing performance and ability. There's two good reasons for a start!
Most climbers focus on getting stronger, doing pull ups, muscle ups, lock off training and weighted dead hangs. These training methods will get your mobilising muscles stronger, however, what about the stabilising muscles? Stabilising muscles work at a lower intensity for long periods of time. They help with posture and also help the mobilising muscles to function better, therefore making you stronger. The rotator cuff muscles work to stabilise the shoulder. One study found that a decrease in rotator cuff muscle force, resulted in a greater humeral head displacement, making you more susceptible to shoulder injuries. In climbing this is very common and this means a lack of shoulder flexibility, which again isn't great for climbers.
If you’re a serious boulderer or sport climber, chances are you’ve heard about the MoonBoard. Over the past year, it has shown up in our social media feeds with alarming frequency, and has even sparked live-feed climbing competitions on its relatively miniscule 12 x 8 foot climbing surface. But, while it is currently trending like crazy on the Internet, the MoonBoard’s history actually predates Twitter.
During the infancy of rock climbing training in the 80’s and 90’s, dingy garages and cellars spawned makeshift climbing walls that were dubbed “woodies.” These simple plywood panels were erected at steep angles, with scrap wood screwed on for bouldering holds. The problems were necessarily short due to the low ceiling heights, and by default, power was the main factor being trained. This was a precursor to today’s artificial climbing walls; modern rock jocks eschewing
Posted: May 08, 2017
A few months ago we invited our international MoonClimbing team over to the UK, while they were here we pinned them down to get some of their top training hints and tips, to help improve your climbing, or as we say at Moon #trainHardclimbHarder.
The first video is by David Mason, and he talks through Deadhang training using the Moon Dead Hang rung
this is a breakdown of the exercise:
To find your maximum weight, you need to
deadhang a 20mm edge with enough
weight added to cause you
to fail at exactly 12 seconds.
This is your training max weight.
It should only be treated as a
baseline though, if it feels too easy
you should increase the weight
Finding your max weight will constitute
a session in itself and shouldn't
be incorporated in this workout.